Ceilings are seriously underrated. Ever since we started color-drenching and wallpapering ours, we’ve been hooked. And after adding tongue-and-groove planks to our upstairs hallway a few weeks ago, it was obvious… the living room needed a ceiling upgrade too.
I’d been dreaming of a DIY shiplap ceiling here for years—not the rustic farmhouse style, but something buttoned-up and elegant, with crown molding still shining as the finishing touch.
Our living room has always been cozy, but that flat 8-foot ceiling? It was a blank canvas crying out for texture, charm, and personality. Now that we’re in the middle of a living room makeover, it was the perfect time to tackle it.
Once we removed the old attic fan vents and those non-working ceiling speakers (bless their ’90s hearts), we were ready to bring this vision to life. And let me tell you—it turned out even better than I imagined.
If you’ve got a weekend and a cordless nailer, this project is totally doable—even if you’re not a pro. Here’s exactly how we did it:
Tools & Materials
- Pre-primed tongue-and-groove shiplap planks
- Construction adhesive
- 2″ 16-gauge finish nails + cordless nailer
- Cordless drill
- Miter saw
- Coping saw (for crown corners)
- Crown molding
- Wood filler + caulk + caulking gun
- Drywall sander (optional, but a huge help)
- Shop vac (optional, for less sanding dust)
- Primer + paint (we used Sherwin Williams Limewash)
- Drop cloths, painter’s tape, pencil, level, chalk line
Step 1: Remove Old Trim & Molding
We carefully took down the existing trim and crown molding to create a clean slate, making it easier to install the new planks flush against the wall.
Step 2: Measure & Plan Layout
Measure your ceiling length and width to calculate how many planks you’ll need (plus 10% extra for cuts and waste). Test the spacing with a scrap plank to avoid ending with awkward slivers along the crown or fireplace.
Step 3: Mark the Center Line
Snap a chalk line at the center of the ceiling. Starting from the center keeps everything symmetrical and ensures a polished layout.
Step 4: Bevel the First Plank
Cut one end at a 45° angle with a miter saw. This beveled edge makes the planks fit seamlessly and reduces visible gaps.
Step 5: Install the First Plank
Apply construction adhesive to the back and secure with finish nails into ceiling joists where possible. Starting at the center ensures your rows stay balanced.
Step 6: Continue Installing
Work outward from the center, locking edges together. Bevel the ends that meet the previous plank, applying adhesive every 3–4 boards for extra stability.
Step 7: Fill the Ceiling
Keep going until the entire ceiling is covered. Bonus: expect a solid arm workout!
Step 8: Add Crown Molding (Optional)
Reattach or install new crown molding. Use a coping saw for perfect corner joints, and nail everything in place. If you need guidance, our picture frame molding tutorial is a helpful reference.
Step 9: Fill & Caulk
Cover nail holes with wood filler, and caulk along crown molding edges for a smooth finish. Allow to dry completely.
Step 10: Sand Smooth
A cordless drywall sander with vacuum attachment made sanding fast and dust-free. A regular orbital sander works too—you just might get a little messier.
Step 11: Prime & Paint
Once dust-free, prime and paint the ceiling with Sherwin Williams Limewash—a creamy, warm off-white that brightens the room. We painted the mantel Benjamin Moore Temptation for contrast.
Now, the ceiling is officially the showstopper. It adds so much character without overwhelming the space. Our low 8-foot ceiling doesn’t feel cramped anymore—the texture, creamy paint, and crisp crown lines make the room feel taller and more intentional.
Next up: installing the lighting (a fandelier, naturally), moving furniture back in, and styling the space with cozy, classic touches to match our new view above.
If you’ve ever wanted a DIY shiplap ceiling, this is your sign. You can do it, and the transformation is so worth the effort. Bonus: it’s perfect for covering popcorn ceilings too.